We headed north on the A7 Autoroute, leaving the ‘galet' filled vineyards of Chateauneuf-du-Pape behind us.  Ahead, lay the towns of Orange and Montêlimar.  The expansive vineyards of the south gave way to orchards and countryside.  As we approached the village of Valence the terrain changed.  The steep, terraced, hillside vineyards told us we had reached our destination -  and the holy grail of Syrah - the Northern Rhone.

Our destination was the town of Mercurol not far from Tain’Hermitage.  

We pulled into the drive of Domaine Michelas Saint Jemms, a smaller family owned and run establishment and everyone, including the winery dog Tina, were there to greet us.

What makes Michelas Saint Jemm unique is that they produce wines from not just one AOC of the Rhone Valley, but several: Cornas, St.Joseph, Crozes-Hermitage and Hermitage. They are also one of the the oldest privately operated wineries in the area and the oldest family owned winery in Crozes-Hermitage.

And this is truly a family affair.  The property itself goes back to 1861 but wasn’t really developed until 1961 when Robert and Yvette Michelas took charge.  Today, three sisters, Sylvie, Florence, and Corine, work alongside brother Sebastien and other family members, oversee the 50 hectares (just over 123 acres) of vineyards and production of 150,000 bottles (12,500 cases). 

Of course, the prize AOC is Hermitage - a region known to every lover and collector of French wines.  The parcels (three noncontiquous parcels total 1/2 hectare/ 1.23 acres) were acquired years ago when a family friend, unable to keep the land in his family’s hands, asked Robert Michelas if he would be interested in purchasing the vineyards.  Knowing that opportunities to purchase these scarce and highly prized blocks were few and far between, he jumped at the chance and the rest is Michelas Saint Jemms history!

We were soon loading into the vineyard vehicles and heading away from the winery and through the countryside.  We climbed higher and higher into the hills of Crozes-Hermitage, past crumbling castle ruins and row upon row of flowering grape vines. 

As we soaked in the wonderful vistas, Sylvie explained that, in 1973, Michelas Saint Jemms become an independent winery (rather than being associated with the local co-operative).  Sébastien, who is in charge of all the vineyards, set about improving the quality of the fruit and several years ago, they qualified for the new H.V. E. certification.  Haute Valeurs Environnmental (High Environmental Vaules) is a newer certification that emphasizes working in harmony with nature. Biodiversity is encouraged “ If there are trees, leave them.  If there are grasses, leave them - don’t cut.” said Sylvie.  “Birds and animals are welcome!”.  

We sampled several wines in this gorgeous setting including the 2012 Crozes-Hermitage Blanc, a blend of 60% Roussanne and 40% Marsanne, half of which is oak aged with the balance in stainless.Soft toast on the nose but it’s all about  minerals and fruit on the palate with acacia and a touch of marzipan.

Sorry to say that this wine, as well as the refreshingly fruity and fresh Crozes-Hermiage Fleur de Syrahne that we sampled next, are not available in the U.S., which I personally feel is a shame as they are delicious and both very food compatible and would be appreciated by the North American palate.

Luckily, the 2011 Crozes-Hermitage ‘Signature’ Rouge is! With fruit grown on chalky-clay soils, this is an aromatic Syrah.  Fresh black fruit aromas are both fruity and meaty making this a versatile sipper or dinner companion.  At at suggested retail of $25 USD it is a wonderful introduction to the signature grape of the Northern Rhone.

It was now lunch time.  In France, this a ‘sacred’ part of the day - a time to stop and recharge with food, family, and, naturally, some wine.

We were very fortunate to be invited to share this time with the family (including Tina and Emmi  the cat) and soon discovered they had prepared a veritable feast of traditional fare reflecting their Drome and Ardeche regional roots.

It was now time for the next course - a local specialty of the pre-Alps region of Grenobles - Ravioles du Dauphiné.  These tiny little pockets of pasta are filled with cheese, herbs and cream.  Sylvie served these in wonderful ceramic dishes which, as with the other artisan table wares, were produced ‘just down the road’.  Although our ravioles were topped with local Extra Virgin Olive Oil and fresh basil from the garden, we were told they were also delicious baked in a gratin with courgettes (zucchini).  I can only imagine!

The next selection of wines, are, I’m sorry to say, not available in the United States but would give any wine lover an excellent excuse to visit the winery!

Under the ‘Terres d’Arce’ label, Michelas Saint Jemms bottles all four AOC - Crozes-Hermitage, Saint Joseph, Cornas and Hermitage and are the only independent producer to do so. These are their ‘prestige’ bottlings - what an New World winery might call their ‘Reserve’ tier, showing the distinctive character of each terroir and its interpretation of the Syrah grape. These wines consistently score highly in such respected publications as the ‘Hachette Wine Guide’ and the ‘Gilbert & Gaillard' wine magazine, not to mention Robert Parker’s ‘Wine Advocate’.

We were thrilled to try all the offerings, including the Hermitage (of which they only produce 600 bottles!) and tried our best to convince everyone, especially Sales Manager Laurent Gomez, that they should make these Rhone treasures available stateside! 

No French meal is complete without ‘a little something’.  A large dish of exquisite local peaches and apricots appeared (Hermitage is equally famous for the delectable stone fruit, it seems) plus a big platter of ripe red cherries.

Another regional delicacy appeared on the table.  A large, round yeast bread, ‘Pogne de Romans’ which, translated from Old French, means ‘by hands’. Similar to a brioche, these are made for special occasions and holidays and are lightly scented with orange blossom water.  This particular pogne came from an old and revered bakery, L. Ronjat in the village of Saint Donat  sur l’Herbasse, where they have baking since the 18th century.

Too soon, it was time for the family to return to the wines and for us to get back on the Autoroute. It had been an extraordinary day, filled with the wonderful ‘connections’ that only wine can make.  We felt so blessed to share in the traditions of the region and now, whenever I think of the Northern Rhone Valley I smile, remembering the day, their gracious hospitality and wines made with true love, respect, passion and joie de vivre.

Epilogue:

As I was writing this post, I received a message from Jeanne.  She was preparing to go and help out with the Syrah harvest in the Cornas vineyards of Domaine Michelas Saint Jemms.

“Pictures, please!” I requested.  

How fitting that we can now see, full circle the literal ‘fruits’ of their efforts and the continuation of Vendage 2014.

All photos below courtesy of Jeanne Peron, Benson Marketing who was kind enough to arrange this visit. Merci!

Do you know that a wine from the Czech Republic was selected the “Best White Wine” at the prestigious 2014 San Francisco International Wine Competition? 

NOTE: All wines tasted at this event were provided by the sponsoring wineries.  Please see my page ' Submissions, Reviews, Invitations & Disclaimers'.

It seems the ‘cat is out of the bag’ when it comes to the quality and character of these delicious wines from eastern Europe, thanks to the Petr Vacenovsky 2013 Riesling winning double gold and best of show at the competition.

Now, it used to be when I thought of this historic nation, I would think of handcrafted crystal, intricate garnet jewelry, a treasure-trove of culture and architecture, and of course, Pilsner, but after having an opportunity to try a selection of Czech wines, I can now add vino to the list.

Viticulture and wine are nothing new to this region of the world.  Like many parts of Europe, the Romans brought the vine to the area  and are credited with introducing Grüner Veltliner and Welschriesling which are still grown today. During the Middle Ages the industry really took hold mostly due to the power of the monasteries.  Importing grapes from France and Germany, they began to establish vineyard designations and winemaking rules as far back as 1309.  Although the territory was conquered and occupied over the centuries, vineyards here supplied wines for the aristocracy of Europe until phylloxera destroyed much of the vines at the turn of the 19th to 20th century.

Today, the Czech Republic has a small but thriving wine industry.  The majority of the vineyards (96%) are located in the southern region of Moravia ( Mo-rahv-EE-ah) which is just north of the well known Austrian wine region, Weinviertel.  A small number of vineyards may be found  in the northern region of Bohemia which is on the same latitude as the Rheingau area of neighboring Germany.

The nation itself is landlocked and the terrain is predominately rolling hills, with the White Carpathian mountains sheltering the wine regions of the south.  Soil types range from rich dark clay to gravel, marl and limestone.

There are are about 18,000 winemakers in the country - many of them extremely small with production of only a few barrels - continuing the age old traditions of local winemaking. They make wines for their own palates - bone dry and full of crispy minerality with hints of spiciness.  It’s not uncommon to see a group of local winemakers getting together on a Saturday afternoon to sip and critique each others product!

The majority of production is white wine - around 60% - with red and rosé making up the balance.  With larger producers looking to export more of their product, they are now producing wines from dry to off dry as well as the popular sweet, dessert ’straw wines’ . (For more on this wine style, click here)

Many of the grapes grown here are familiar names:, Chardonnay, Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris, Pinot Noir and Cabernet Sauvignon. Just as fabulous, but perhaps not household names (yet!) are: Müller-Thurgau, Blaufränkisch (Frankovka), St. Laurent (Svatovavnnecké) and Welschriesling (Ryzlink Vlassky).

A system of quality designation, based on the French AOC and Austrian DAC, regulates things such as where the grapes are grown, hand harvesting, oak barrel usage, alcohol levels and many other factors. This ensures that the wines labeled with a regional VOC (Vina Originální Certifikace) mark have a guaranteed level of quality and reflect the best attributes of Czech wines.

There’s a distinctive feature that can’t go un-noticed - the absolutely captivating labels on the Vino z Czech vintages.  Every one bears artwork by the famous  Art Nouveau artist Alphonse Mucha. These sensuous depictions of female beauty are not only eye-catching, but also reflect the artistic integrity of the wines themselves. (For more on the Art Nouveau movement in the Czech Republic, see below)

Our first wine was the Grüner Veltliner Michlovsky 2011 ($16) - Fragrant dried apricot, sweet grass and white pepper with ripe red apple and lemon balm on the palate - showing a slight hint of  effervescense. Clean and minerally, it paired well with a spicy crab salad and the bacon and onion tart.

Next, Welschriesling Spielberg 2013 ($23).  This variety is not related to the famous Riesling grape, even though the names are similar.  All white flower blossoms, sweet grass and honey with touches of pepper and lemon peel.  Great paired with that onion tart, and gobs of brie.

Two examples of Pinot Blanc followed. Here’s a hint - if you enjoy Pinot Gris/Grigio, give their ‘relative’ Pinot Blanc a try!

Pinot Blanc Vyskocil 2009 ($23) showed unexpected tropical character - kumquat, perfumey guava, ripe peaches, light honeysuckle and spicy clove/nutmeg.  Paired beautifully with brie, Comte cheeses and sushi - especially the cucumber roll.

Pinot Blanc Spielberg 2009 ($34) was quite different - lots of ripe apple and stone fruits with an abundance of dusty rose aromas.  Off dry, the finish was long, clean and supple with more baked apple and honey notes.  Once again, it was terrific with the sushi and the onion tart, too.

Now, on to Riesling Michlovsky 2011 ($19) Classic Riesling with crunchy green apples, linden flowers and a passing whiff of petrol!  Plump apricots on the palate with a slight, refreshing touch of ‘fizz’.  Perfect with the sushi, Persian dolmas with rice, veg and dill and, believe it or not, a walnut baklava! 

Rivaner Valtice 2011 ($16) Rivaner is the local name for Müller-Thurgau and, if you enjoy off-dry wines from the Rhine, this will be your new favorite!  Soft, supple apple and ripe, ripe pear flavors make this an easy sipping wine.  I loved it with the crab salad and the sushi and the hot, spicy Sriracha chicken wings found a refreshing friend in this wine.

Rouci Stapelton and Springr 2007 ($40) A blend of Pinot Noir and St. Laurent (the most widely planted red grape in the Czech Republic - also popular in Austria). Earthy and velvety, red plum with caramel, black pepper and milk chocolate undertones, the palate is full with dried strawberry, black raspberry and ripe rich cherry.  If you like a fruity, lighter red wine like Beaujolais, this is right up your alley.  I loved it with a spicy ginger snap cookie, the spicy wings and Comte cheese. Super sipper, too.

Our final wine was a ‘mystery’ treat, selected by the Sommelier back in the Czech Republic.

Modry Portugal 2012 from Vinarstvi Vyskocil is made with the grape variety Blauer Portugieser. The deep garnet color is reflected in the nose and on the palate - lots of super juicy, purple fruits and soft baking spices, red licorice and black plum - reminiscent of a Christmas Pudding in a glass.

To finish the event in true Czech tradition, we each had a ‘wee dram’ of a local digesif called Becherovka.  And a tiny sip is all that’s needed.  Although the locals tout this as a ‘cure all’ and a great pick me up for the ‘morning after’, I think I’ll stick with my new-found friends - the delicious and intriguing wines of the Czech Republic.

NOTE: All wines tasted at this event were provided by the sponsoring wineries.  Please see my page ' Submissions, Reviews, Invitations & Disclaimers'.

The distinctive designs of world renowned Czech artist Alphonse Mucha are a true representation of the Art Nouveau style.

This undulating, sensuous artistic movement began in Europe in the late 1800’s and continued into the early years of the 20th century.  Using nature’s graceful, flowing lines as it’s inspiration, the style infiltrated all the arts.  From architecture to fashion, from everyday household items to the painting, sculpture and art glass, “The New Art” took the world by storm.

Mucha was, and continues to be, one of the most recognizable proponents of the period and his homeland of the Czech Republic has respected and preserved many architectural representations. 

For more information: www.czechtourism/a/art-nouveau/

Many of us are ‘seasonal’ wine drinkers; in other words, we tend to drink cozy reds in the winter and lighter, more refreshing wines in the warmer months.  Not only do these choices fit our mood but also the food selections we make.

With this in mind, the Wine Review Council met on a classic Southern California July evening to sample a selection of wines perfectly paired to our relaxing poolside setting.

All the samples hailed from California, from producers large and small, both established and new and the evening brought a few surprises.

Both the first and last wines were versions of Viognier from one of the newer wineries in Southern California, Estate d’Iacobelli (pronounced “de Yack-oh-belly).  This small establishment opened the doors of their tasting room this past May, located in the town of Fallbrook, located between San Diego and Temecula.  The owners, Ronei and Lisa Iacobelli, are originally from Michigan, but their love of wine and Italian heritage brought them to the Temecula Valley in 1998 where they bought 20 acres and planted vines and olive trees.  They decided, however, to build their tasting room on a beautiful hillside overlooking the Pala Mesa Golf course.

The 2011 Estate d’Iacobelli Viognier is refreshingly fragrant with crunchy green pear, orange blossom and peach leading to a somewhat creamy palate with nectarine and lime zest on the finish.  Not your typical Viognier, but delicious just the same.  Retail $32.00.

The companion wine, 2010 Estate d’Iacobelli “Sticky Fingers” LH Viognier was a terrific finish to the evening.  Baked pear and nutty cashew mingled with lemon drop! The finish was not syrupy or overly sweet. It would make a perfect ‘little something’ after dinner. Retail $26.00. Both wines are available at the tasting room or through their website.

Moving further north to Mendocino, we sampled three offerings from Moniker Wine Estates.  A creation of three generations of the Thornhill family, the name and logo honor the multiple generations working together to create this premium line of wines.

First up was the 2012 Moniker Chardonnay.  The majority of the fruit was sourced from the Ribera vineyard located  on the banks of the Russian River.  The wine was barrel fermented for four months in American oak and, prior to bottling, blended with a bit of Viognier and more Chardonnay that was aged in French Oak.

The result is a subdued and somewhat elegant Chardonnay, with soft apple, spicy cinnamon and notes of baked pear.  The sur lie aging lends a soft mouth feel and good acidity keeps the finish fresh.  Retail $23.00

Pinot Noir is always a great choice for summertime cuisine and the first one we sampled was also from Moniker. 

The 2012 Monkier Pinot Noir is a blend of grapes harvested from three Mendocino vineyards located in Anderson, Redwood and Potter Valleys, aged in American oak for seven months.

The wine is all red fruits – rhubarb, cherry and red plum, highlighted with notes of fresh tobacco and tealeaf.  Retail $30.00

Our last selection from this producer was the 2011 Moniker Cabernet Sauvignon.  Although I wouldn’t normally consider this variety as a ‘summer sipper’, one can never say no to a California Cab!

This bottling received Double Gold at the 2014 San Francisco Chronicle Awards.  Aged for fourteen months in three year old French oak barrels, the wine lets the fruit do the talking.  Black cherry, spicy plum and vanilla notes on the nose and palate linger on to the finish.  This wine would definitely benefit from some more time in the bottle to fully show itself.  Retail $30.00

From newer wineries on to a familiar name in the pages of California wine history: Wente Vineyards.

Founded in 1883, Wente is the oldest continuously family owned winery in the United Sates.  They began with 47 acres, planted by founder C.H. Wente and have now grown to 3000 acres, still in the Livermore Valley AVA.  

The Wente family have always contributed to the growth of the wine industry: first to put the grape variety name on the label, founders of the California Wine Institute and of course, the development of the now prolific Wente Clone of Chardonnay. 

They were honored as the American Winery of the Year in 2011 by Wine Enthusiast Magazine and in 2010 became a Certified Sustainable Vineyard, part of their “Family for the Future” campaign.

To be honest, I had not tasted any of their wines for a very long time.  Call me a snob, but I just hadn’t.  I was in for a pleasant revelation.

We first sampled the 2012 Wente Riva Ranch Chardonnay.  This is part of the “Heritage Block” Series utilizing grapes from vineyards named after some of the pioneers of Wente winemaking.  They are located in the Arroyo Seco region –considered one of the prime Chardonnay areas since the 1960s.

The grapes were fermented in a combination of French, American and Eastern European barrels and stainless steel.

The result is a tasty, New World Chardonnay.  Vanilla beans, soft toast, baked apples with nutmeg and hints of tropical pineapple.  Retail $22.00

The second sample from this historic producer was the 2012 Wente Morning Fog Chardonnay.  Named after the cooling mist that flows from San Francisco Bay over the vineyards of the Livermore Valley, the wine is aged half in stainless steel and half in new French, American and European oak barrels.  All the wine is aged sur lie for seven months.

Elegant and enticing soft apple, lemon curd and spicy ginger show on the nose and palate with soft toasty, brioche, peach and applesauce lingering on the finish. Part of the ‘Vineyard Selection’ Series. Retail: $12.00

Our third and last taste of Wente was red - the 2012 Wente Reliz Creek Pinot Noir. The fruit once again is sourced from the vineyards of Arroyo Seco in Monterey.  The soil here is gravelly loam with shale and limestone, lending structure and minerality to the wine.  The wine spends twenty months in a blend of French and European neutral oak.

The lovely cherry red hue matches the perfumy nose filled with cherry, black raspberry, and toast.  The palate is deeper with notes of raspberry preserve, dark strawberry and earthy note of kirsch.  The finish is clean with touches of white pepper.  All in all, a feminine, Old World influenced Pinot.  “Heritage Block Series” Retail: $28.00

At the end of each Wine Review Council tasting, we all rank the wines according to our personal preferences.  For once, the votes were all swayed in one direction: the Wente Way!

First place went to the Wente Reliz Creek  Pinot Noir, with the Morning Fog and Riva Ranch Chardonnay’s sliding into second and third.  Varietal character, value for money and food compatibility lead to most of our conclusions,

So, until next time, happy sipping, whatever the season.

NOTE: All wines tasted at this event were provided by the sponsoring wineries.  Please see my page ' Submissions, Reviews, Invitations & Disclaimers'.

Here we go with Round Two of the Wine Bloggers Conference speed sipping, slurping, spitting and blogging extravaganza.

As with the whites, we were given five minutes to absorb not just the wine itself but also the story of the winery and the process of the winemaking.  A challenge, to be sure, but a good one.

So I present to you the ten wines brought to our table, just as they were described at the time (with typos corrected to protect the innocent).

J Lohr Falcon's Perch Pinot Noir 2012

Award winning and inky $17. Slighty smokey- succulent silky strawberry. 13.5% alcohol means really drinkable. Can we say BBQ salmon with something chocolaty for afters?

Westerly Fletcher's Red 2010

Bordeaux style blend from Happy Canyon AVA . Black juicy berry meets licorice and black plum. Dark cocoa and earth and terrific balance of fruit acid and tannin keeps this rich and balanced. Sip alone or try with some braised short ribs. Winemaker hails from Harlan Estate. Need I say more?

Main and Geary Dry Creek Zinfandel 2011 

Big and plush palate zin from BevMo Private label series $19.95 and even less when you go to the 5 cent sale. Heat up the grill and get your party started with this very quaffable wine.

Cornerstone Cellars 'The Cornerstone’ 
Napa Valley 2011. 

Releasing this September & made to be aged for 10 years plus. Blend Cab Sauv/ Merlot/ Cab Franc. Everything is there: acidity, tannin and plummy cassis fruit blending all together. Balanced wine to savor in the years to come. Only 100 cases.

White Hart Pinot Noir 2012 Santa Lucia Highlands Central Coast 2012

40 year old vines in this cooler AVA brings out dark strawberry aromas with juicy red currants and subtle clove nutmeg spice. An elegant feminine Pinot made for sipping or cuisine. Delicious.

Banfi Centine Rosso 2012

Banfi Wines are in the house.
Sangio-Merlot marriage is your everyday "let's have some wine with dinner" vino and at around $10-12 you can make this tasty little fellow your house wine. The soil is limestone dominant so we have great structure welding together cherry, berry and a bit of tar with great palate cleansing acidity. Bueno.

2008 Satrapezo Saperavi 

from Georgia - the country! The grape is native to Georgia and the juice as well as the skin is red giving the wine a deep opaque hue. Rustic and earthy with plummy notes. Interesting.

Aridus 2012 Syrah 

The winery is in Arizona but while they wait for the vines to produce they have sourced from the Russian River for this vintage. Dried sage herbs and black fruit with solid tannins would be good compliment to grilled meats and root veg.

Charles Krug Howell Mt 
Cabernet Sauvignon 2011 

Broody and big with dark fruit and cocoa tobacco leaf. A touch of Petit Verdot and all French oak ups the anti on this voluptuous red. Prime Rib is calling.

Ottimino Vineyard 2011 Russian River Valley Zinfandel 

Cooler climate means longer, slower ripening so higher acidity and low alcohol- for a Zin!! Dark strawberry jam and cassis with black Dutch licorice, tealeaf and vanilla bean. Thinking some Tex-Mex.

How many wines can you taste, describe and put into the social media stratosphere in, say fifty minutes?  

If you had been attending the 7th Annual Wine Bloggers Conference in Santa Barbara County, CA a few weeks ago, you would have to say ten, because that's exactly what we did!

The theory is this:  bring together over 300 wine bloggers from around the world and seat them at large round banquet tables in the ballroom of the Santa Ynez Marriott. 

Every 5 minutes, have a winemaker or winery representative come to the table to pour wine samples and talk about the wines and the winery.  The bloggers taste and assess, then Tweet, blog or Facebook their comments about the wine (plus any other interesting tidbits they can squeeze in) and the process is repeated.

The action reached a fever pitch after about the second wine as everyone asked questions, swirled, and sipped while tapping away on smartphones, tablets and laptops.

Day one was for Whites and Rosés.  Sadly my table didn't see any pink wines but we reviewed an interesting array of whites.

Here, with typos corrected, is a recap:

1) Bianchi Pinot Grigio 2012. 

Smooth but palate fresh. Dried grasses mingle with citrus ripe melon and somewhat cozy finish coming in at 13.7pc alc. Go Paso.

3) Bandit 2012 Pinot Grigio

Tetra Pack time. CA grapes-Napa Sonoma and Central Coast.

 Enviro friendly is great and at 8 bucks retail cud work for picnic. Light refreshing and crisp.

4)  Laetitia Brut Cuvee NV   

Sparkle time. Chard Pinot Noir and Pinot Blanc from Arroyo Grande. Cool green apple and soft peachy fizzle. Sustainable vineyards and great cool climate make good sparkling. Fun and frothy.

5)  2012 Consilience Viognier

All local Santa Barbara AVA fruit vinified to make food friendly vino. Neutral French oak - 14 months gives soft vanilla spice, cinnamon toast to go with ripe plump apricot. Voluptuous as Viognier shud be but nice acidity keeps to that food friendly vibe and goal.

6)  Rios de Chile 2013 Sauvignon Blanc

Minimal intervention to keep varietal character. AM fog and proximity to the sea show in crisp clean granny smith apple and citrus peel notes. Grantic and sandy clay soils. Great food-seafod-salad wine. 
Try it- I will.

7)  Jordan 2012 Russian River Chardonnay 

40pc new French oak for 4 months keeps this approachable and food compatible. Really racy acidity enhances nuanced fruit. Super summer fare companion and might make your ABC friends change their minds.

8)  Buttonwood Zingy Sauvignon Blanc 2013.

All estate fruit - all stainless and cool ferment. Hence the name Zingy perhaps? Laid back aromas of green melon and crisp apples. Bring on the fried chicken and potato salad!

9)  Aridus Malvasia Bianca 2013

Arizona's challenging climate and high elevations are no threat to Aridus Winery of Cochise County. Grapes from New Mexico. Neutral oak for few months but still highly aromatic. If you love Moscato you will flip for Malvasia - fruit salad in a glass with clean finish.

10)  2013 Danza del Sol Vermentino Temecula Valley.

I have to like this or they will kick me out of my house right? Lime and tangerine on big nose. All stainless shows peachy palate. Come to Temecula and grab a glass on the patio.

So, there you have it.  Ten wine reviews in 50 minutes.  It was noisy, challenging and a lot of fun.  So much fun that we repeated the exercise the next day with reds!  Stay tuned for part 2, coming soon.

NOTE: All wines tasted at this event were provided by the sponsoring wineries.  Please see my page ' Submissions, Reviews, Invitations & Disclaimers'.

If you are familiar with some of my blog posts, follow me on Facebook or Twitter, than you most likely know that I adore France and, in particular, French Rosé.

After spending the weekend at the Wine Bloggers Conference, I returned home with an idea - to create a website and blog devoted entire to Rosé.  Not just the wines, but everything about them - their history, who makes them, where they make them and how, what foods pair well and where can you travel to taste them.

I am pleased to introduce "The Rosé Rules".  There's not much content at the moment - she's only a few hours old - but there will be soon.  I invite you to stop by and visit and please feel free to tell me what you'd like to know.  Cheers!

www.theroserules.com

The recipe seems simple: take 2 award winning chefs and one acclaimed restaurateur. Blend with high quality sustainable ingredients, sprinkle liberally with lots of creativity and serve with class. 

The result: Pizzeria Mozza!

A Southern California favorite since they opened the original Los Angeles restaurant in 2006, it seemed only fitting than when owners Nancy Silverton, Mario Batali and Joe Bastianich were seeking a location for their new San Diego incarnation, they selected a slice of local social history – the “Headquarters” at Pacific Coast Highway and Harbor Blvd.

From 1939 to 1987 this was the original home the San Diego Police Department. And a stylish complex it was, with a typically SoCal mix of architectural styles, ranging from Spanish Colonial and Pueblo to Classical.  The buildings have been beautifully restored, befitting it’s stature on the National Register of Historic Places, with fountains and shaded courtyards mingled with commercial spaces. 

Pizzeria Mozza, with its respect for history and tradition - enhanced by a modern twist- is a perfect fit for the location.

There are four Pizzeria Mozza locations: Los Angeles, Newport Beach, the Marina Bay Sands in Singapore and now San Diego.  Each restaurant shares the same philosophy summed up in this quote from Nancy Silverton : “ Simple, all natural ingredients lead to artful nutrition”.

 This location is green certified and procures its products from green oriented suppliers.  Even the sparkling water is produced ‘in house’.   

There’s a spacious outdoor patio (great for people watching on Sunday’s during the Certified Farmer’s Market!) and an inviting interior dining area.

Several months ago I was invited to a Press Lunch for the International Food, Wine and Travel Writers  Association.  We had a chance to not only sample some of the classic dishes from Pizzeria Mozza but also to meet many of the people who make it all happen    

The menu also features a host of local San Diego draft and bottled beers and a creative wine list focusing on, not surprisingly, Italian vino.  Many are from organic, smaller wineries that you won’t see on your average wine list.  All have been chosen with the menu in mind and we can thank Sommelier LaMont Schroeder for that!   

Each incarnation of Pizzeria Mozza shows a bit of it’s own personality, especially San Diego. With ever changing menu items to suit the season and the chef’s creative streak you could come back time and again and always find something new.

There are, however, some classic staples and we were thrilled to sample them all.

We began with a selection of Bruschetta -White Beans alla Toscana with Saba and Chicken livers, capers, parsley and pancetta.  The bread was perfect – toasty but not so crisp as to shatter into a hundred pieces when you bit into it!  The texture of the white beans was amazing and the savory liver was brightened by a hint of lemon and fresh parsley.

Chef John Stenbakken explained that the Bruschetta are a menu tradition, but the toppings are rotated on a regular basis.  Everything is made in house – an important element in maintaining consistent quality. 

John has been with the company for may years and plans on adding more pasta dishes and grilled items to the menu.

Our next course was a huge plate of gorgeous Pane Bianco, dripping with high end olive oil and garlic – the perfect compliment to probably the most beautifully presented Mozza Caprese I have ever seen! 

The small ‘on-the-vine’ tomatoes were roasted for about 2 – 21/2 hours to concentrate their sweet flavors and worked really well with the ultra creamy Burrata  and fresh pesto.

To cleanse our palates, a colorful Insalata Rosso was served.  Crisp radicchio dressed with a simple lemon vinaigrette, delightfully ‘chewy’ Wisconsin applewood bacon, freshly shredded Peccarino Romano and softly cooked egg.  I could have made a meal of this with some of that wonderful Pane Bianco!

But we couldn’t stop without trying some pizza!  The ‘signature’ pizza, unique to San Diego, is the Kale Pizza.  Beautifully balanced toppings of fresh  baby kale, savory red onion, ricotta cheese, mozzarella and spicy coppa adorned the light, crispy, crust. Delicious.

We were introduced to pastry chef Juli Sinning, keeper of the secret dough recipe!  Julie started with Pizzeria Mozza four years ago in their Singapore location and was brought out to San Diego to open the new restaurant.

Although she could not be bribed to divulge all the secrets of this fantastic pizza crust, she did explain that they make all the dough by hand, twice a day – once in the morning and again in the afternoon.  The dough will sit overnight which aids in developing the texture and flavors.

Wood fired ovens at incredibly high temperatures bake the pizzas in a matter of moments and give them that distinctive deep color.

Julie is also in charge of the terrific dessert selection.  She makes all the Gelato from scratch using a special machine imported from Italy and they even squeeze their own fresh fruit juices to go into the house prepared sorbets.

We were lucky enough to sample some of these cool, creamy confections: a hazelnut gelato and the pineapple/coconut sorbet.  Refreshing, vibrant and true flavors shone through.

These contrasted with the other signature dessert – the Butterscotch Budino – a decadently creamy pudding topped with burnt sugar, softly whipped cream, and Maldon sea salt.  Sinful.  The accompanying pine nut and rosemary biscuit was a savory addition to the sweet and salt of the pudding. Wow.

Whether you visit Pizzeria Mozza for a quick ‘slice’ and a beer or spend several hours sipping your wine and savoring multiple courses, you are sure to leave this terrific location knowing you celebrated “La Dolce Vita”.

Pizzeria Mozza is located in the “Headquarters at Seaport District”, 789 West Harbor Blvd, San Diego 92101 (609) 376-4353 
http://www.pizzeriamozza.com/SanDiego/home.cfm
http://theheadquarters.com/shop-dine

Parking: There are two lots at Seaport Village, across the street, Valet Parking at the Headquarters and metered parking on surrounding streets.

The San Diego International Wine Show was held last weekend, April 26 & 27 in Del Mar, California.

I was invited to attend as both a member of the Press and as a presenter.  Not quite sure which role was more fun!

This was the third year for the event and this time they did, indeed, go international, with wineries and wines from Spain, Italy, Mexico, Portugal, Chile, Argentina and, of course, France. Local representation included Napa, Sonoma, Temecula and San Diego.  

For those of you who attended my seminar, "There's No Place Like Rhone!" I say thank you and hope you enjoyed such an abbreviated visit to this truly wonderful part of the wine world.  Forty-five minutes goes way to fast.

If you'd like to know more about the Rhone Valley, please visit my Student Resources page where you'll find all kinds of links and information on the wines and food of the region.

I'd also like to thank KK LaFournaise for wrangling me into doing this, Donato Santarsieri, and Live Fit Magazine for their wonderful, live coverage of the event.  Check out their YouTube page for a full recap.

So, what should my topics be for next year?  

Disclosure: Wine tasting is a highly individual experience and, scientifically, none of us perceive wine in exactly the same way. The opinions expressed in this post are mine and mine alone and although the wines sampled were supplied by the designated wineries for review I describe them as I see them.

When you are a wine educator it’s natural that people ask you a lot of wine related questions.  One of the most frequent queries has to do with price.  Why, people ask, does one Chardonnay/Merlot (insert variety name here) cost more than another?  Is it really worth paying more? 

A while back, the Temecula Wine Council tasted a selection of wines that had one thing in common: they were all over $40 retail.  Considering that the average price paid for a bottle of wine is around $6.30 1 to many imbibers out there, these prices are a splurge.

So let’s have a look at the wines we sampled and see if we can answer this burning question!

First up was a non-vintage white wine from Paso Robles, “Le Cuvier XLB Chardonnay Reserve”. (retail $55).  The grapes were fermented with their skins, somewhat unusual for a white wine, and then barrel aged for 5 years.  The end result is a big, bold interpretation of Chardonnay, orangey gold in color and meant for food pairing rather than leisurely sipping.  It would be a good match for hard cheeses or spicy hummus.

Másut Vineyard & Winery in Mendocino California is owned by the third generation of the well-known Fetzer family – Ben and Jake.  Their 2012 Pinot Noir (retail $40) is produced from organically farmed estate vineyards. The yield is low, about 3 tons per acre and grapes are all hand sorted. This attention to craft continues through the winemaking stage and the wines are aged in 33% new French oak barrels for 10 months.

The result is a New World style Pinot with dark silky berry notes showing a hint of clove, cigar box and kirsch. 

This wine was paired with Mushroom Risotto, which was terrific, as were some spicy lamb meatballs.

Another Pinot Noir followed, this time from the Sonoma Coast.  Sojourn Cellars Sangiacomo Vineyard 2012. (retail $54)  This is the flagship vineyard for Sojourn with low yields and high quality fruit.  Berries are sorted in the vineyard and again after harvest leading to small lot fermentation and barrel aging.

This Pinot shows ‘Old World’ flair – soft strawberry, cherry and dried raspberry fruit, with rose petal and earthy, forest tones.  In classic, Burgundian style it proved to be a great sipper and was equally at home with savory ‘gourgere’ cheese puffs, as well as the risotto.

Staying in California, we moved on to Tudal Family Winery ‘Cliff Vineyard’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2010. (retail  $65) This small, two acre, vineyard, lies just north of Napa in the Oak Knoll district and yields a small 200 cases.

Aged for 12 to 18 months in 80% French and 20% new American oak barrels, this wine has a gorgeous deep garnet color.  Aromas of ripe forest fruits and vanilla lead to walnut, humidor and roasted green pepper on the palate with medium tannin.

Bolognese stuffed Bell Peppers were a terrific compliment to the wine.

Another Cabernet followed, also from Napa, Ca’ Momi 2011 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon (retail $65).  This winery was started in 2006 by three Italian winemakers who fell in love with Napa.  After consulting and working with many of the finest growers in the area, they decided to produce their own wines and knew the best fruit to source.

The 2011 Cabernet has lots too offer – jammy berries and dark currents, with tones of tobacco and dried sweet grass.   It paired well with the food offerings at hand but I think it would be a terrific choice with the wonderful offerings at Ca’ Momi’s ‘Enoteca’ in Napa!

Provenance Vineyard’s Cabernet Sauvignon ‘Oakville Beckstoffer to Kalon Vineyards’ 2010 (retail $89) was our last red of the evening.  With fruit hailing from one of the most historic vineyard sites in the Oakville region of Napa, the wine is a true American Cab.  Deep ruby hues meet rich blueberry and black fruit, laced with fresh sweet baking spices, toasty oak and licorice.  The tannins are supple and refined making this a fantastic, versatile choice for food or to savor on its own.

Our last selection was a complete departure both in style and geography – a Czech ‘Straw wine’.  Slámové Vino, Ryzlink Rynsky from Mercincak Winery. (retail $63 for 375ml) This rich and refreshing dessert wine is created with Riesling grapes that are harvested late in the season so the berries are high in sugar and low in water.  The clusters spend four to six months resting on straw mats.  During this stage sugar levels increase before the grapes are crushed.  The fermented wine is then aged in barrel. The result is a wine moderate in alcohol, around 11% and very high in residual sugar!

This winery is the largest Biodynamic grower in the Czech republic and has been specializing in traditional grape varieties and styles since 2008.  This incredible attention to detail shows in the beautiful balance of the wine. The fresh acidity ensures that the sweetness doesn’t overpower, so you have a silky nectar filled with aromas and flavors of tropical fruits, rich citrus and fragrant honey. A tropical fruit trifle proved a tasty companion.

So, what was it about these wines that merit the price?  A combination of elements can contribute – extended barrel aging and the continuous attention of the winemaker, new (and pricey) oak, hand sorting of the grapes both in the vineyard and at the crushpad, small lots and sought after vineyards.

All these wines shared a common denominator: dedication to quality.  That’s something you probably won’t find in a $4 bottle!

1 “Consumer Wine Trends” Erin Guenther, winebusiness.com Jan. 21/2013

One of the great perks of being involved with the wine industry, in all its many permutations, is the chance to taste and learn on a continual basis.

Most of the offerings from wineries, especially larger producers or those affiliated with the more ‘corporate’ establishments, are focused on sales.  After all this is the wine ‘business’ and without sales we would all in a sad state. 

But every now and again an invitation appears for a more ‘educational’ experience and these are the ones that get me excited.  Such was the case last month when I attended the “Sommelier Series” event sponsored by Chalone Vineyards.

The seminar was held at the stunning Lodge at Torrey Pines in La Jolla, CA.  This elegant, craftsman-style resort is home, I’m told, to a legendary golf course but my focus was on the wines!

The workshop was conducted by Robert Cook, Winemaker for Chalone and Gilles de Chambure MS with a comparison tasting of several vintages from Chalone Vineyard and wines from Bourgogne.

Chalone Vineyards were first planted in 1919 by Frenchman Charles Tamm.  It seems he was searching for soil that reminded him of his native Burgundy and found them in this limestone rich terrain in the shadow of Pinnacles National Monument .

Today, these are the oldest producing vineyards in Monterey County and produce award winning Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, just as Monsieur Tamm had dreamed of!

In 1966, under owner/winemaker Dick Graff, Chalone set the standard for California Chardonnay and today, although it is owned by a large corporation (Diageo Chateau & Estate Wines), the wines are still crafted with respect for both the vineyard and the distinctive terroir.

These wines certainly held their own when tasted against two delicious vintages from Burgundy and the passion of both gentlemen enhanced the experience.

I shall be writing more extensively on the terroir, history and vintages of the Chalone AVA in the near future (more on that to come - stay tuned!).

A big “Thank you” to Angela Bortugno and Lauren Watters of Chalone Vineyards for organizing a well orchestrated and classy event.  Speaking to the other Sommeliers and educators, it was a terrific experience all around and Chalone should expect quite a few industry visitors in the months ahead.